丁墨爺空間: 2016

2016年12月5日星期一

Sew Retro #3 Vintage Pattern Simplicity 2426 & Aunt Lindy's Paper Dolls Fabric 古董版型 & 古董娃娃棉布

Vintage Pattern Simplicity 2426

I finished this dress about 4 weeks ago

but just didn't get the chance to sit down and write

BECAUSE!!
I was busying with Black Friday Shopping!! XD

這件上衣和長裙其實已經在4個星期前就完成了

但是一直沒有時間寫文章
因為這陣子一直忙著shopping!
美國最大的折扣通常都是在 Thanksgiving 前後
愛買買的我
當然不能錯過啦! 哈哈!

this cute vintage 1950's pattern was purchased from Etsy

這次用的版型也是購於Etsy
她是1950年的古董版型

這次使用的布料

其實原本是要用在製作咖啡店的手工包包
它是複製1930年的紙娃娃圖案

後來聽說台灣的手工包很多大家也對布料的認知不同

所以我決定自己將它做成裙子

當時在購買的時候

我並不知道這個復古的1930年代的紙娃娃布料已經不再製作了

當我要做裙子的時候才發現布料根本不夠所以我花了非常多的時間上網搜尋相同的布

很幸運的我找到一位賣家還有2塊布 ( 一塊布共有八個娃娃)

所以我買了她最後的兩塊布並在她的賣場中找到了可以做上衣來搭的娃娃布

this Aunt Lindy's paper dolls fabrics has been sitting in my closet for a year now
so I decide to turn it into a skirt

they are 1930's inspired fabrics and when I decided to make skirt I realize I was 2 panels short

but gladly I was lucky enough to find some "left over" online
and also the matching fabric for the top


For the top 製做上衣的布

I really love this print!

將將! 新可愛娃娃上衣誕生

the reason I didn't make the collar for the top
it was because my Mom and my little sis gave me lots of cute detachable collars that they purchased from Taiwan

and they are just perfect for my new top!

我沒有在上衣縫上領子的原因

是因為我阿母跟妹妹在幾年前給了我很多台灣賣的可拆式珍珠領

它們和我這次做的娃娃上衣很搭
真的很可愛捏!

For the skirt part
I usually prefer midi skirt length
but I hated to cut this print in half so I made the maxi skirt instead

在完成上衣後的一個星期後我終於完成了這件超級可愛的長裙
原本我是要做成膝下裙但是因為不想把娃娃的圖案剪成一半
所以我決定將她做成長裙

Style with detachable collar

搭上復古珍珠領

and a cute Chinese opera flats

還有可愛的國劇平底鞋

style with vintage blue cardigan
&
LadyABroda Handmade broach

搭上藍色的小外套
和富古手工 LadyABroda 胸針

I got this one of kind broach from a Etsy seller name LadyABroad
she is super nice and the quality of the broach is excellent
I also love how she packaged her broach
it makes the person who received it feel very special

這個非常特別的復古胸針
是我在Etsy和一位手工賣家LadyABroad買的
她的手工不僅精巧連包裝都非常的精緻復古

style with cute kitty cat collar

搭上可愛喵喵領

& a doll purse

和蘑菇娃娃包

I love this detachable collar
it is not just detachable you can wear it as a "half top" to prevent the collar from rotating

我特別喜歡這件一件式的喵喵領
因為是穿在身上的
所以可免去擔心穿一下就要調整的狀況

it's very versatile
I also wore it with my winter dress on Thanksgiving day

Thanksgiving 那天我穿它搭配我的花花洋裝
朋友在FB留言說牠是"在花園裡沉睡的貓"~ 呵呵

style with
Hell Bunny Scottie Cardigan

搭上可愛的狗狗小外套

How cute! I love HER!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

if you are a student who's not good at academics in Taiwan

then you are a big trouble to your teacher

but not my six grade art teacher - Mr. Liu

Mr. Liu has a very slim tall figure
and his first name sounds just like "golden elephant" when pronounced in Mandarin

so we kids often called him Mr. Elephant

Mr. Elephant was the only teacher who treated me equally and without any judgement for my entire school life

my sky always appears more than 2 colors

my grass always appear more than 3 colors

when other classmate draw ordinary picture on the free subject
I draw a temple and a monk

but Mr. Elephant never judged and he always told me
do not feel fear to using the colors and he also encouraged me to not use others view to see your own picture

by this day

my favorite teacher is Mr.Elephant and will ever be

無論是製作娃娃衣服或是近期的洋裝

我都不喜歡跟著"流行"走

我喜歡穿自己喜歡的顏色喜歡穿自己喜歡的風格

我想這跟我小學六年級時的美術老師有很大的關係

我的小學美術老師是一位高高瘦瘦非常斯文的老師

他有著一顆溫暖的心名字中有一個"象"字所以我們都叫他"大象老師"

時間久遠我可能把老師的名字寫錯但是我到現在還記得大象老師的名字叫劉"金象"
福東國小的劉金象老師
而且到現在我都還記得他長得的樣子呢!

在台灣長大的人都知道如果你在學校的功課不好

那你就是老師眼中的"問題學生"

但是大象老師不是一般的老師他不用一般的眼光來看待學生

我的天空總是出現兩種以上的顏色

我的草地總是出現三種以上的顏色

自由創作的主題的時候

我畫的"廟與和尚" 明顯的和別人"我的家"和"兒童樂園"格格不入

但是大象老師從來不像別人以奇怪的眼光看待

他鼓勵我自由的發揮並告訴我

我並不需要將別人眼中看到的自己用來設為自己的框框

大象老師誇讚我的畫要全班為我拍手
那也是我的人生中
第一次接受到別人的掌聲

大象老師是我從小到大印象最深刻的老師

也是唯一一位在我整個學生時代到現在還懷念的老師
大象老師給予我的鼓勵
在我的人生中引響非常大

在美國好多年我的穿著從不會引起"異樣眼光"
但在以前的台灣我算是異類一枚
最近創作這些衣服的時候
總想起了大象老師

不管大象老師看不看得到我的文章
我都想要藉此感謝他
希望他永遠健康平安

Happy Sewing

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2016年10月2日星期日

Sew Retro #1 ~ Butterick Patterns B6167 復古阿明做洋裝 #1

Sew Retro
Butterick B6167

After I took about 5 classes of "sewing 101" at my local fabric store

and some practicing on doll patterns
with all of those past years of sewing experience
I am ready to make my very first dress

經過了5堂的基本裁縫課練習
和過去在網路上下載許多娃娃衣服版型的裁縫經驗後

我決定要為自己做一件洋裝

Butterick B6167

I have been loving all the Butterick's Retro collection patterns for a long time
so I picked the B6167 patterns as my first start

從不久以前
就ㄧ直很想試試看 Butterick 出的一系列復古洋裝裁縫版型
這一系列的服裝版型
都是仿照1940's - 1950's fashion style 而設計的
喜歡40's和50's fashion的我
當然不想錯過

as a home sewer

any commercial patterns are big challenge to me

對一個在家自學裁縫的人
對於了解如何把版型剪下試衣裁縫
真的是一項非常大的挑戰

I have learned in the past
the most important thing in sewing is;
Be Patient ~ Be Patient ~ Be Patient

從過去的裁縫經驗中
我學到的心得就是要有耐心
除了耐心還是耐心
沒有不二法門

and because patience is the most important thing when it comes to sewing

I have been very careful to go through each step

也因為這樣我對這次的任何裁縫步驟
每一項都是緩慢的進行
包括剪版型
也是以龜速緩緩地前進~ 呵呵

I also used muslin for the fitting

避免中間步驟出太多錯誤
我先裁了muline 來做練習和試size

according the size chart
I should be a size10
but since it was my first time to make a "real" dress
to be extra careful
I sized up my cup size - A/B Cup to the C cup
and also sized up the pattern size from size10 to size12

依照說明書上的size
我的身型應該要裁10號的版型但是我裁了大一號的12號版型
原本的A/B Cup 也裁了 C Cup
只因為太小心和害怕在過程中出差錯
( 看本人有多怕出錯就好 )

I also added the strip under the bust area just as a personal preference

在胸圍下方
我自己多加了說明書上沒有的"胸腺"
因為自己喜歡這樣的設計
( 個人很任性來著 )

for the shirred bust
I was using a C cup pattern instead of my real cup size
so I inserted elastic between the seam allowance on the top
just for easy adjustment of the bust piece and to match the lower bodice piece

因為 C cup 胸圍布料很多
所以我在裡面多加了鬆緊帶來拉出皺褶
也方便我和下方的布在接縫時可以做平衡

I also skipped the boning part
simply because I want my dress to be worn as a daily dress.

說明書上建議放骨架
但我覺得這樣穿起來顯得有些太過正式所以沒有放

Thanks to my Hubby; he gave me a new sewing machine for my birthday
that's the main reason I gained more confidence and believed in myself so that I could make my own garment just like everybody else

對於這次終於能有自信地完成一件洋裝
完全要歸功於藏鏡人在我生日那天送我的新裁縫機

demonstrating the Narrow Hem foot

It took me about 3 weeks to finish this dress
and I'm quite happy with the result

Here it's my new baby girl!
TADA!!

這次總共花了三個星期多的時間
才完成這件洋裝
對於成果大致算滿意
( 本人對自己要求極度龜毛 )

不過當然還是很開心因為我終於完成她了!!
將將!!!

instead of cutting 3 skirt pieces as the instructions suggest
I cut out 2 more skirt pieces to create more volume

裙子下擺的地方
因為自己喜歡澎澎的感覺
所以我多加了兩片的裙子布

after trying on the dress
I did notice the bust size area is a little bit "roomy" on me
so I do think I will make some adjustment on next attempt or go down on one size

胸圍的地方
對我來說還是有點大
不過這算是我一次的學習
希望下次會會拿捏得好一點~

after struggling many times with putting the pieces on myself and having myself become a pin cushion

my dear Hubby decided it's time to get me a good and nice professional dress form

as you all know
when it comes any professional dress form the price can really drop your jaw
so after many hours of research
I finally settled on ordering from a company called Only Mannequins® Outlet on Amazon.com
because it has the best professional dress form price I could find

在縫製洋裝的過程中
因為要試衣的關係我的身體自然而然地變成一個活動大針包
好心的藏鏡人決定幫我買一個專業的dress form
因為dress form的價錢可以貴到令人下巴掉下來的地步
身為買買達人和小氣達人
用理想的金錢額度買下附和自己需求的東西
花時間做搜尋是必須的

最後我在 Amazon買下了不僅初學者可以負擔
還兼任許多功能性的dress form

說句實話
我還滿訝異竟然可以在Amazon找到價錢好
質感又好的dress form :)

Collapsible Shoulder 可調整肩膀

finally finished - the zipper part
( although I do need to practice more with the invisible zipper )

收到了dress form後
對於縫隱藏拉鍊的部分也方便了許多
( 雖說對於這個部分我還要多加練習 )